Car Damage

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Engine damage

A broken engine in LFS means that the engine simply loses power. A broken engine can be heard from the peculiar sound it makes, it sounds a bit like "popcorn". This is the most recognisable way of how engine damage is implemented in LFS. You can check this by yourself by accelerating the to higher speed and the quickly shifting back to lower gear. As a result you have a car with damaged engine. The engine can't be totally killed with this method, even if the said method is quite a dramatic one. The engine state doesn't deteriorate after there is some damage if you stay below the safe rev ranges, so you can still drive the car without fear of DNF.

Losing power may not be an issue on short pickup races but when the races get longer, with the possible driver changes, it gets more attention. The main reason for this is that you are driving longer stints which, in turn, means that even small amounts of engine damage can have noticeable effect on you total race time because the small time penalty gets multiplied over large number of laps. Engine damage can be fixed on a pitstop. If the engine damage is up to 3 %, it counts as minor damage and can be repaired in 6 seconds, anything over that counts as major damage (12 seconds).

The most probable situations where engine damage can occur when you are shifting down quickly while braking and when accelerating out from the corners - things you do all the time in LFS. When accelerating and upshifting it is important that you lift the throttle to prevent the revs getting too high. On some cars this kind of overrevving will cause engine damage, on some cars it won't (as much or at all). Keeping the throttle on while upshifting has, however, a performance bonus in turbo engine cars and this can be seen as some kind of trade-off between speed gain in short term and consistency in long term. There is no fatal race-ending damage so sometimes a risk is more than worth it. Especially when you are not paying for the damages in real life cash.

Running out of fuel doesn't damage the engine, but will stall it. You need to start the engine after more fuel has been added, if you made it to the pits. Starting the car is done by pressing the I key twice, I for ignition. First off and then on again. Some LFS car cockpits do have gauges for engine damage. The engine damage indicator glows yellow or red if the engine is damaged.

Clutch damage

The clutch can overheat and this is shown with CT ("clutch temperature") bar on F9/F10 screens. Basically, the more slip, the more heat and more heat = less torque transferred and again = more slip. In normal state the CT bar is grey and when damaged the bar changes to orange or red.

Clutch overheating can be somewhat avoided by keeping the engine revs on reasonable levels while shifting. Shifting to higher gear means that the engine revs need to drop certain amount of RPM for minimal slip in the clutch. When changing to lower gear the engine needs to rev up and the vehicle needs to slow down for the speeds to match. Otherwise the clutch has to slip which causes it to heat up. The slip is what causes the clutch to heat and misuse of the clutch will make the clutch to eventually burn out. It is not possible to repair clutch on pitstop.

Suspension damage

Damage display toggled by pressing F10

LFS suspension is based on bars that can get longer or shorter, depending on the forces and impacts imposed to them. LFS can give you somewhat precise information about suspension damage through the F10 menu. If you press F10 you will see 4 bars per tyre describing the damage attributes in graphical form. UPR stands for upper suspension arm, LWR for lower suspension arm and TOE is simply toe-in or toe-out.

This view won't give you any numerical data, but it can show easily what has happened to your suspension. If all bars are light grey, it means that the suspension is 100% fit and operational. If you see any red bars, they mean that the particular part is totally broken. (Red bars can also be interpreted as collapsed suspension components. Term collapsed is used later on.). There are in-between stages as well, and these are shown in orange color. Basically they tell you how broken/collapsed the particular part (spring/damper or bars) is or that the part isn't actually broken, it has just changed its attributes due to collision and/or impact. The TOE tells us that the tyre is not pointing to the right direction plus it is damaged but still operational. This can be also noticed from how the car handles and drives.

But basically the red doesn't mean that the part is totally collapsed, in fact it is quite operational in terms of "it's still there". The color just tells us that the part has been elongated/shortened too much, or incase of a spring/damper, the state of the component is collapsed. This is most obvious when you look at the vertical bar. If it was red, the suspension would no longer have any resistance for motion (shoch absorbers) or travel (springs). In clearest form, the tyre can move freely up and down without any force stopping or slowing it from doing so. If the vertical bar has orange section, it means that suspension travel has been reduced due to suspension damage. In current state the damage just edits the suspension components' properties, mainly length (rigid parts like bars and joints).

However you find that not all cars in LFS have this advanced suspension type. Cars using MacPherson struts (UF1 front suspension) won't obviously have upper suspension arms and cars with trailing arm suspension (UF1 rear suspension) won't have neither in LFS. In attachment 2 you can see how an MRT5 race car and UFR race car differ in this.

Each wheel should be able to take, in the vertical direction, 3 times the weight of that end of the car. For example, if you had 50:50 weight distribution then each front wheel should be able to take 1.5 times the total weight of the car before becoming damaged. In the lateral direction, each wheel can take 6 times the weight of that end of the car. With a 50:50 weight distribution then each front wheel should be able to take 3 times the total weight of the entire car in the lateral direction.

Tyre damage

Each tyre of the cars in LFS does have 48 sampling points for heat and wear, divided into three rows. Eventually that means that you can end up with flatspotted tyre/s if you aren't cautious with your driving style. Flatspots in LFS are parts of the tyre surfaces which are hotter than the tyre surface next to them. Hotter tyres have less grip in LFS, after you go over certain temperatures. How are these linked then? Well, because the flatspotted part is hotter than the surrounding, it is more likely that when you next time lock the wheel under braking it will stop rotating at the same position, making the flatspot even more dangerous. Flatspots also change the tyre radius and the form of the tyre which results in less grip, shorter tyre life and puts more stress to the suspension components. Flatspots can be noticed by looking at your F9 menu while keeping the car in motion, and by looking at the specific tyre temp readouts i your F9/10 menus. You'll see that the flatspotted part will blink in red colour while the tyre is rotating. The red color means that the flatspot is still hot.

After the flatspot has cooled down it has normal grip, like the rest of the tyre. However, the the parts of the tyre surfaces which have been flatspotted have less rubber, so these flatspots usually cause tyre blowups later in race due to wear. In the third attachment I have shown LFS tyre data (F9 menu) just before a tyre blowup and after it. Notice the front left tyre has still some tread on it but hard braking causes too great forces for the tyre, resulting tyre failure.

Body damage

In LFS the car body damage is all visual. It does not alter the aerodynamics of the car nor would it twist the chassis either. So the tyre angles and suspension geometries stay uneffected. Wings and other aerodynamic devices are uneffected as well. Basically chassis damage has no effect on gameplay. The only effect of body damage is that the car body can twist into quite interesting shapes which can make it hard to see out from inside the car.